On September 16, 2014 TVC presented a tasting of 8 Left Bank Wines from 2004. Four were from Saint-Julien, two from Pauillac, one from Margaux and one was from Pessac-Leognan. They included 1 Grand Cru Classe, 3 second growths (2e cru), 3 third (3e cru) growths and 1 fourth (4e cru) growth. Derek Kranenborg was gracious enough to fill in at the last minute as our guest speaker. He also spoke at our May event featuring premium California Cabernet wines. We were delighted and thrilled to have him return to our club.
HOW THE WINES WERE RANKED
THE WINES
2004 Ch. Malescot St. Exupéry, Margaux 3e cru $49 Medium bodied, soft and supple, as it approaches its 10th birthday, this is starting to drink well. Espresso, black cherry, tobacco, truffle and anise round out the finish. 90/100 - tasted May 19, 2013. http://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/bordeaux-wine-producer-profiles/bordeaux/margaux/malescot-st-exupery/
2004 Ch. Pichon Longueville, Baron, Pauillac 2e cru $99 "An undeniable star of the vintage, Pichon-Baron's 2004 boasts an inky/ruby/purple color to the rim as well as a big, sweet nose of melted licorice, chocolate, black currant jam, truffles, and charcoal embers. Soft tannin, full body, and abundant opulence and flesh are atypical for the vintage character, but this wine is loaded. Pure, ripe, and evolved, it should be at its finest between 2009-2022." Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, 93/100 points. "An intensely powerful, smooth wine in a style that has an instant, sexy appeal. But it's not just surface glamour; there is a solid texture, layering the dusty tannins with rich black plums, red berries and vanilla." Wine Enthusiast 94/100
2004 Ch. Duhart Milon Rothschild, Pauillac 2e cru $54 “Full bodied, with firm tannins. The early tastings show signs of a wine with fine spicy and very ripe black fruit aromas. The mouth is structured with elegant tannins and great length. Blend: 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot. Winemaker’s notes. "Good core of fruit, with silky tannins and a medium to long finish of licorice, smoke and berry. Very good red. Best after 2007." 91/100 The Wine Advocate
2004 Ch. Leoville Barton, St. Julien 2e cru $73 This is an impressively endowed vin de garde that should age effortlessly for 20-30 years. How Anthony Barton continues to fashion uncompromisingly primordial Bordeaux that are always among the biggest and densest of all the St.-Juliens is beyond me, but he does it year in and year out. Moreover, when it’s time to set the price, he appears to have the consumer foremost in his mind. The 2004 is a classic Leoville-Barton meant for long aging. Concentrated, with loads of smoke, creme de cassis, forest floor, and earthy notes emerge from this impressive, but oh, so backward wine. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030+. Score: 92/100 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (171), June 2007. “Complex nose of perfumed dark fruit along with a meaty note. Reasonably firm and young on the palate, not giving much away even now but very well balanced and already showing its elegance. Rich and a little chewy at the end and good length. Drink 2011-2019. Date tasted 17th Feb 09. Score: 17+/20 Julia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com, February 2009
2004 Ch. Lagrange, St. Julien 3e cru $45 "This backward, tannic, strikingly oaky St.-Julien reveals a big structure as well as copious power and muscle, and a modern-styled combination of ripe fruit and new oak. While it requires a few years of bottle age to shed its cloak of tannin, and develop more Bordelais character, it possesses plenty of stuffing, and may turn out to be outstanding with additional time in bottle. Patience is warranted. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2025" Robert Parker 89/100 June 2007. "Slightly pale rim. Correct, good balance. Rather simple, slightly raw Cabernet aromas. Sweet palate attack quickly followed by some pretty green tannins. Suffers from being not fully ripe. A bit simple and aggressive." Drink 2013-2018 16/20 Jancis Robinson April 2005
2004 Château Langoa Barton, St. Julien 3e cru $60 Grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc. “Another sleeper of the vintage from this somewhat under the radar step-child of Anthony Barton's more famous Leoville Barton, the 2004 Langoa Barton exhibits deep, concentrated, chunky, black currant and cherry fruit intermixed with notions of forest floor and aged beef blood. This impressive, full-bodied, powerful, age-worthy St.-Julien is atypically backward and brooding. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2025+.” 90/100 Robert Parker, June 2007
2004 Ch. Branaire Ducru, St. Julien 4e cru $49 Grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc. Proprietor Patrick Maroteaux’s 2004 exhibits grip in a linear style, and a structured, 1999-type personality with elegance, crisp acidity, and notes of minerals, raspberries, cocoa, and subtle oak. It possesses moderate tannin, medium body, and outstanding depth and equilibrium. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2020." 90-92/100 pts. (Robert Parker - Wine Advocate - Jun-2006)
2004 Ch. Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Leognan Grand Cru Classé $67 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot; 18-20 months in oak. Loads of vanilla and wood, gigantic nose. Lovely soft, harmonious fruit, super mid-palate, very complex, waves of flavour on the finish. Drink 2008-11. Decanter. www.decanter.com/wine/reviews. Tasted 08/12/2006. "Another strong effort from the impeccably run Pessac Léognan state, the dense ruby/purple colored 2004 exhibits a classy nose of crushed rocks, black currants, vanilla and graphite. Medium-bodied with good weight, a multilayered texture, fine purity, and excellent harmony, it should evolve gracefully for 15+ years." Robert Parker's, The Wine Advocate - 91-93/100.