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  • Writer's pictureToronto Vintners Club

2009 Chablis, June 2013

Our guest speaker for the evening was Anne Popoff, professional sommelier and former Ontario President of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers.

We imbibed the following Chablis wines on June 18, 2013.


William Fèvre, Chablis 1er Cru, Montée de Tonnerre $49 “The 2009 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre comes across as rich, round and pretty. Smoky and minerally at first, the fruit blossoms on the mid-palate and then truly gains dimension on the big finish. Expressive white stone fruits and flowers linger on the close. It is a wine of notable complexity and pedigree. This is two-thirds Chapelots and one-third Pied d'Aloup, vinified separately. The south facing Chapelots, on the lower slope of the hill, is richer in fruit while the east to southeast facing Pied d'Aloup is more aromatically complex, mineral and fresh. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019.” 92 pts. Antonio Galloni,, Aug/11.

William Fevre, Chablis Grand Cru, Bougros $75 “The 2009 Chablis Bougros is a striking wine that shows many of the elements of grand cru Chablis is a smaller scaled, accessible style that is highly appealing. Smoke, ash, crushed rocks and a host of other aromas and flavors wrap around the sensual, saline finish. This is a round, harmonious style very well-suited to near and mid-term drinking. Fevre owns fully 50% of this grand cru. The Bourgros is made from the plateau portion of the vineyard, where the soils are deep and rich in clay. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019.” 93 pts. Antonio Galloni,, Aug/11.

Servin Chablis, 1er Cru, Montée de Tonnerre $35 “The 2009 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre captures the exuberance of the year, but without reaching the level of intensity found in the Cuvee Massale. Layers of ripe fruit build towards the enveloping finish. The wine turns powerful and incisive on the mid-palate, revealing plenty of structure to balance some of the more overt elements. This is a rare 2009 that needs another year or two in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.” 92 pts. Antonio Galloni,, Aug/11.

Gerard Duplessis, Chablis 1er Cru, Montmains $30

Montmains is a significant Premier Cru-classified climat of Chablis, located just south-west of Chablis town. Domaine Gerard Duplessis is a family business . . . with Lilian Duplessis (son of Gerard) representing the fifth generation. Their wines are organic (certification pending) and processed in accordance with the soil and the environment. 1st Crus and Grand Cru are vinified for 12 months in stainless steel tanks and reared six months in oak barrels." Winemaker's website. Tasting notes for this wine are not available. 90/100 (Universal Wine Score)

William Fèvre, Chablis Grand Cru, Les Clos $99 “The 2009 Chablis Les Clos is a beauty. Stunningly rich and deep, it possesses gorgeous textural richness and depth in its layers of intensely perfumed peaches and apricots. The fruit totally saturates the palate with incredible depth and nuance in its perfume. Seductive and enthralling at first, the Clos turns positively explosive on the finish. Gorgeous, expressive scents linger on the close. Fèvre’s parcels are on the limestone-rich upper slopes of Les Clos. About 50% of these vineyards were planted in the 1940s. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019.” 94 pts. Antonio Galloni,, Aug/11.

Albert Bichot, Chablis Grand Cru, Les Vaudésirs $79 “Beautiful golden robe (sic) with very bright green reflections, it welcomes us with a citrus and delicate floral (lily of the valley, chamomile) nose. The mouth has the vintage's tension, with a pleasant moderate acidity which makes this wine a typical representation of a Chablis Grand Cru: mineral and intense.” Winemaker’s website:

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Grand Cru, Les Vaudésirs $75 “An exquisite wine often drunk on its own as an aperitif. Pure and limpid colour, with a faint greenish hint. On the nose, fresh aromas of flower and fruit (lemony flavours) and, at times, spicy notes of coriander. On the palate: harmonious aromas bringing character and elegance. The magnitude of its Grand Cru origin and the light salty notes from the Kimmeridgian soil are in evidence. Remarkably long and complex persistence in the aftertaste.” Winemaker’s website:

La Chablisienne, Chablis Grand Cru, Les Preuses $65 “Pale yellow colour, limpid and brilliant wine. A developed bouquet of cocoa and mild oakiness, followed by notes of lemon and white flowers. Good aromatic persistence. Well-structured first impression in the mouth and noticeable fullness. Mineral and chalky finish, with a touch of lime. We will have to be patient in order to allow this very great wine to reach its peak.” Winemaker’s website: 94/100 Allen Meadows,

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