The Toronto Vintners Club

THE RHONE RANGER – NORTHERN RHONE REDS, April 20, 2010

Guest Speaker: Daniel Beiles

Notes on the Wines

How The Wine Were Ranked

At the beginning of 2010, Toronto Vintners Club presented a wonderful selection of Chateauneuf du Pape from the southern Rhone region. In true Vintners’ Club tradition, it is only fitting that we now showcase wines from the Northern Rh^ne. Unlike its southern neighbour, the north Rhône is characterized by a continental climate with harsh winters but warm summers. The region is colder which means that the mix of planted grape varieties and wine styles are slightly different. Syrah is the only red grape variety permitted in red AOC wines from this sub-region. The grape, believed to have originated in or close to the Rhône region, is also widely known as Shiraz, its name in Australia and much of the English-speaking world. For wines bearing the Cornas AOC designation, Syrah must be used exclusively, whereas other reds from may be blended with white wine grapes, either Viognier or Marsanne and Roussanne depending on the appellation. This blending adds an extra dimension to the wine. However, while this is allowed by the AOC rules, blending with white grapes is only widely practiced for Côte-Rôtie. Northern Rhone reds are often identified by their signature aromas of green olive and smoke bacon. 

The relatively small appellations of the north produce less wine than those of the south but they are equally famous if not more so. The most northerly is Côte-Rôtie (the roasted slope). The slopes on which the grapes are grown are precipitous but the wines are so fine that vignerons will always persist here despite the difficult conditions. There are two main slopes, Côte Brunes and Côte Blondes and are just as they sound with darker Brunes soils consisting of thick clay and iron, producing firm and robust wines, while the lighter soils of the Blondes slope contain more slate and limestone, making elegant, soft wine.

Our wine selection consists of 3 mini verticals from Jamet, Domaine de Trevallon and Domaine Franck Balthazar, each of which shares the minimalist winemaking approach of the region in order to showcase the terrior. We are pleased to include a sample from Domaine Yves Gangloff whose owner ended up in the Rhone Valley only because he fell in love with and married Mathilde. The slightly eccentric, former artist turned his creativity to wine-making to produce lively, intense wines much like the producer. Finally, the 2004 Leon Barrel Faugères Jadis will make an interesting addition to this spectacular tasting for its biodynamic nature and the producer’s obsession with cows. This is an opportunity to taste some rather some rare, highly rated, and exclusive wines which will be accompanied by food.

Top of Page

The Wines

Jamet, Côte-Rôtie 2004 $105
Approachable, but with ample structure for the vintage, this features lots of grilled sage, black olive, beef and black cherry notes allied to a tangy, iron- and herb-filled finish. Should settle in nicely with some moderate cellaring. Best from 2009 through 2017. 2,500 cases made. Wine Spectator, James Moleworth: 92/100

Jamet, Côte-Rôtie 2005 $105
Intense, with warm roasted fig, currant confiture and melted licorice notes that almost gush forth, but the briar patch, sweet tobacco, mineral and incense notes lend both definition and refinement. The long, long finish shows terrific intensity and a lingering note of sweet macerated black olive. Best from 2010 - 2020. 2,000 cases made. –JM. "Ruby-red. Musky raspberry, cherry and spiced plum aromas are complicated by fresh flowers, incense and cured meat. Minerality emerges with air, carrying onto the palate and supporting the sweet raspberry and blueberry flavors. Becomes even fresher on the back end, finishing with outstanding sappy persistence. Boasts wonderful clarity and fine-grained tannins." (Jan/Feb 08) Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: 93-94 points / 100. 

Franck Balthazar, Cornas Chaillot 2005 $69
Still rather tight, with reticent red currant and plum fruit held in check by a taut texture and additional iron and lavender notes. The sinewy finish needs to unwind more in the cellar. Best from 2009 through 2013. Wine Spectator , James Moleworth 90/100. Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: 93/100.

Franck Balthazar, Cornas Chaillot 2006 $65
Very focused, with taut minerality and garrigue hints leading the way for dark cherry, iron and tapenade notes. There's solid underlying grip, with a very sappy, kirsch-, pepper- and sage-filled finish. This fills out nicely as it airs. Drink now through 2016. 350 cases made. –JM. International Wine Cellar: 92/100.

Leon Barral, Faugères Jadis 2004 $49
Crisp and minerally, with dried cherry, plum and berry flavors. Shows meat and leather on the finish, with some muscle. Drink now through 2010. 230 cases imported. –KM. R. Parker Jr. 90 / 100.

Domaine De Trevallon, 2001 $95
50% Syrah; 50% Cab. Sauv. A brilliant expression of Cabernet (even though it’s half Syrah). Beautiful nose: sweet, pure, rich blackcurrant fruit dominates, with a nice herby character in the background. There’s an olivey, minerally character, too. The palate is nicely concentrated with lovely purity of fruit and a minerally edge to the nicely structured palate. Very good/excellent 93/100. “The 2001 red was bottled in December 2003, after clarifying briefly with egg white. It's probably the greatest vintage since 1983.” Eloi Dürrbach, owner/winemaker.

Domaine De Trevallon 2003 $99
50% Syrah; 50% Cab. Sauv. Sweet, full nose of lovely, pure red and black fruits with a spicy edge. The palate is nicely concentrated, showing some elegance, with an earthy tannic structure underpinning the spicy fruit. Finishes dry and spicy. Very good/excellent 92/100.

Domaine Yves Gangloff, Côte-Rôtie La Barbarine 2003 $110
92% Syrah, 8% Vigonier. Gangloff is considered one of the largest of the prestigious Côte Rôtie appellation so much so that fans snapped its various vintages. Also famous vintage upscale La Serene Black Gangloff the area produces a wine called La Barbarine. This wine is more accessible than its predecessor; offers a fresh wine, but balanced and rounded. The 2003 vintage can be enjoyed now after 2 hours in decanter. Wine Enthusiast: 92/100. 

Top of Page

How The Wines Scored

Top of Page