The Toronto Vintners Club

2002 CÔTE DE BEAUNE, January 19, 2010

Guest Speaker: Sébastien Jacquey, Assistant Winemaker, Le Clos Jordanne

Notes on the Wines

How The Wines Scored


What better way to ring in the New Year than to sample the Beaune region of Burgundy from the auspicious 2002 vintage. This vintage for Beaune was rated “outstanding” by E. Robert Parker. Unlike the tremendously difficult vintages of 2000 and 2001 in and around Volnay and half of Pommard, the 2002 vintage smiled on the entire Côte de Beaune. The '02 reds have ripe tannins but excellent acidity, which means that they are drinking well even now but will still keep for 10 or more years without a problem. The best 2002s are very fresh, nicely pure, punchy and racy with good fat and much better than average mid-palate concentrations plus a velvety, even silky quality to the finishes. The wines are moderately, in some cases even, firmly structured with ripe tannins and bright but not high acidities. 

Pinot Noir - the varietal that is hard to cultivate, difficult to press and unpredictable but can produce some of the world’s best and most beautiful wines when made properly. Our selections evidence the flair and sensitivity of some of the most discerning and respected winemakers of Beaune. The most famous part of the Burgundy region is known as the Côte d'Or (the Golden Slope). It is divided into the Côte de Beaune, south of the town of Beaune, and the Côte de Nuits, North of Beaune (home of the most famous reds). From here, we have compiled an auspicious list of premier cru for your tasting pleasure. The hand-picked and sorted grapes in each of the domaines represented create hand crafted wines that are truly representative of the terroir.
Marquis d'Angerville wines are made in a delicate, rather understated style. The minimalist philosophy here deliberately emphasizes low yields and avoids manipulation of finished wines. The vineyards of the Domaine Marquis d'Angerville are in the finest communes. They are situated on southeast facing slopes to take full advantage of the morning sun. The soil is composed of chalk and marle. This rocky soil absorbs the heat of the day and releases it at night to extend the growing season and lead to more maturity in the grapes. The steep slopes of the vineyards make for well drained soil on which Pinot Noir grapes thrive.
With two selections from Volnay, sometimes known as the Chambolle Musigny of the Côte de Beaune, Volnay is famous for its silky, elegant wines with finesse, delicacy and an almost ethereal nose. However, the wines have a depth and structure that allows them to age for decades. Remington Norman said it wonderfully in his book The Great Domaines of Burgundy: 'If the wines of Pommard sometimes seem like a truck-driver's interpretation of Pinot, then those of Volnay are a ballerina's.” The tasting is rounded out with selections from Louis Jadot whose gravely soils produce more elegant wines. Of course, there is a pièce de resistance in our Grand Cru selection from Corton Clos du Roy from Domaine Antonin Guyon, the only red Grand Cru wine – (the highest level of AOC classification in Burgundy) in Côte de Beaune. 

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The Wines

Corton Clos Du Roy 2002 , Grand Cru, Domaine Antonin Guyon $89
“Better [than the Corton Bressandes]. The same size but riper tannins, richer fruit. More class. This is long and very impressive.” (Clive Coates MW, The Vine, Jan. ’04). “At most domaines that make both a Clos du Roy and a Bressandes, I usually have a preference for the Bressandes because I like the elegance but chez Guyon, it's the opposite as the Clos du Roy is almost always their best wine and it's certainly the case in 2002. This is a big, robust and very masculine wine of considerable size and weight yet it's the superb complexity that drives this to the next level. While this is structured, it's not as tight and reserved as the Bressandes but surprisingly, it is just as precise and the sappy, rich, beautifully intense finish goes on and on. A terrific effort that will require the better part of a decade to arrive at its peak.” Drink: 2010-17. 90-92. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, April 2004. Wine Enthusiast, Top 100 of the year [2004] A superb wine, which is dominated by enticing aromas of sweet fruit. Flavors of sweet strawberries mingle gracefully with soft, rich tannins. ). 94 points.

Louis Jadot Beaune, 1er Cru "Les Boucherottes" 2002 $50
"An almost Pommard-like rusticity in the 2002 Beaune Boucherottes. Hints of talcum powder can be found in its otherwise black fruit-dominated nose. Bright, expressive, and crammed with red cherries as well as blackberries, this firm wine appears to have the depth of fruit to outlast its structurel Anticipated maturity: 2007-2013. 87-88." (Pierre-Antoine Rovani, The Wine Advocate, June 30/04 ). "Deep ruby-red colour. Very ripe aromas of blackberry and chocolate. Fat and full on the palate, with flavours of redcurrant, black cherry, chocolate and earth. A solidly built Beaune that comes across as more primary than the Teurons. Finishes with big, dusty tannins. 87-90. “(S. Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, March/April 2004)
Volnay, Champans, 1er Cru, Marquis d'Angerville $80
“Bright, deep red. Black raspberry, black cherry, flowers, licorice and spices on the nose. A step up from the Fremiets in intensity and shape, with the spice character lifting the wine's fruit. Boasts lovely purity and grip, as well as more obvious tannic backbone that calls for at least four or five years of additional bottle aging. 88-91.” S. Tanzer. “Good colour. Rich and round. Very good fruit. Fullish bodied but very good tannins. No hard edges. Long and intense. Classy. Very Volnay. “ (, The Vine, 02/2004)

Louis Jadot Savigny-Lès-Beaune 1er Cru "La Dominode" 2002 $44
"Medium to full-bodied, black cherry-scented offering. Copious quantities of dark berries, cherries, and metallic flavours can be discerned in its expressive character. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2012. 86-87 pt." Pierre-Antoine Rovani , The Wine Advocate, June 30/04. "Good medium red-ruby. Nuanced, bright aromas of red- and blackcurrant, minerals and flowers. Firm and nicely delineated, with flavours of black fruits, minerals and earth. Finishes with fine tannins and good chocolatey length. 87-89 pt. " S. Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, March/April 2004.

Jacques Prieur Beaune Greves 1er Cru, 2002, $64
An intense, round 2002 Pinot Noir. Dark and lush, with concentrated black cherry, licorice and spice
flavors, vibrant acidity and firm tannins to back it up. Very impressive, with a lot of oak yet to be absorbed.
Best from 2007 through 2018. Wine Spectator. 92 pt.

Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot 2002, Bouchard Pere & Fils $69
Medium-full colour. Rich, gently oaky nose. Soft fruit. Ripe. Very good tannins. Medium-full body. Very stylish and complete. Good acidity. Nicely intense at the end. Very good indeed. (C. Coates, The Vine, June 2004). “Deep red-ruby. Plum, redcurrant, licorice, mocha and roasted nuts on the vibrant nose. Very suave and a bit high-toned in the mouth, with slightly minty flavors that are a bit cooler than the nose-and the wines fat-would suggest. Finishes firm and aromatic. Very interesting, stylish Volnay in the making, but quite laid-back today. 89-92.” (S. Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, March/April 2004)

Jean-Marc Pavelot Savigny-Lès-Beaune, 2002, 1er Cru "La Dominode $48
Very good colour. Full, firm, backward wine. Going to need time. Lots of volume and depth. Very classy fruit for a Savigny. As usual the richest and the most concentrated of Jean-Marc Pavelot’s wines. Very lovely fruit. Very long. Lots of dimension. Fine quality." (Clive Coates, The Vine, 02/04). “As it almost always is, this is the class of the Pavelot ‘02s with its very ripe and sweet red and black fruit aromas that introduce big, borderline robust flavors blessed with abundant dry extract and superb finishing complexity. This is a very impressive wine crafted in a very ripe style yet it doesn’t lack for elegance and this should reward 6 to 10 years of cellar time and drink well for another 5 years after that, perhaps longer." (Allen Meadows, Burghound, 04/04)

Pommard 'Les Chaponnieres' 2002 1er Cru, Domaine Parent $70
Youthful medium ruby/purple colour leads to a very attractive, classic Pommard nose of black and sour cherry, mineral/earth, leather and hints of truffle. Dry with very good concentration; attractive fruit below dusty tannins. This medium-bodied, long finishing, structured wine will reward 3-6 yr. in a cellar. (Vintages panel, July ’05.

Mystery Wine 2004 Le Clos Jordanne, Le Clos Vineyard 

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How The Wines Scored

Name of Wine (in order poured)
Group Ranking
Guest Ranking
 A. Louis Jadot Beaune, 1er cru, "Les Boucherottes
9
9
B. Louis Jadot Savigny-Les-Beaune, 1er cru, "La Dominode" 
8
6
C. Jean-Marc Pavelot Savigny-Les-Beaune, 1er cru, "La Dominode"
7
4
D. Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot, Bouchard Pere et Fils 
5
7
E. Volnay, Champans, 1er cru, Marquis d'Angerville 
6
8
F. Mystery - 2004 Le Clos Jordanne, Le Clos Vineyard 
1
5
G. Jacques Prieur Beaune Greves 1er Cru 
2
3
H. Pommard "Les Chaponnieres" 1er Cru, Domaine Parent
4
2
I. Corton Clos Du Roy, Grand Cru, Domaine Antonin Guyon 
3
1

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