The Toronto Vintners Club

2004 BORDEAUX – Pomerol & St. Emilion (Right Bank), September 22, 2009

Guest Speaker:  Peter Boyd, profiled in Wine Access magazine as one of "Canada's Top Sommeliers".

Tasting Notes

How The Wines Scored

Bordeaux is more than just a famous wine-growing area. It is a symbol for great wine in general, a model for the whole world of wine. It is the largest and most successful appellation in France and the world, producing over 100 million gallons (660 million bottles) of wine a year from more than 247,000 acres of vines. The elite wines which have established the fame of the region in modern times, constitute a modest five percent of this of course, but their aura is so strong that it is not just the local wine industry that benefits. The world of wine is orientated to Bordeaux quality and takes it as a benchmark.

We are pleased to offer a very interesting Bordeaux Right Bank tasting to inaugurate the 2009-2010 tasting season. With five selections from the St. Emilion region and three from Pomerol (home of Petrus), we can compare the two regions. Pomerol produces only 5.3 million gallons of wine over 2700 hectares and is characterized by more robust flavours which lend longer aging, whereas St. Emilion is one of the largest and oldest viticulture areas, producing 36 million gallons (over one third of Bordeaux production). St. Emilion wines tend to reach maturity quicker. The 2004 vintage was rated above average to excellent with early maturing for these two regions and these wines should be drinking well right now. 

The selection includes Premier Grand Crus such as Beausejour Duffau Lagarrosse, Beausejour Becot and Troplong Mondot as well as some Grand Crus such as Beauregard and Le Bon Pasteur. Will the Premier Cru designation be evident on the palate? 

How will sister houses rank against each other? Beausejour Duffau Lagarrosse and Beausejour Becot were one property until 1867 when its owner divided it into 2 halves and bequeathed to his children. His daughter married Duffau Lagarrosse where the name originates. The other half was sold in 1924 then again in 1969 to its present owner Becot. Beausejour Duffau Lagarrosse has been owned and managed by the same family for nine generations. How will this compare to more modern houses like Troplong Mondot which has own been owned by the Valette family since 1936.

Our guest speaker is Peter Boyd, profiled in Wine Access magazine as one of "Canada's Top Sommeliers". Peter has had a long association with Scaramouche Restaurant, worked with some of Canada’s best chefs, and spent time living and working in France. We are delighted that he can join us for the evening.

Whether you compare by region, by designation, or tradition versus modernism, we invite you to enjoy Bordeaux wines characterized by rich tannins, with notes of dark fruit, tar and toffee. Don’t delay in registering for this historically popular event as it is usually a sell-out!

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The Wines

2004 CERTAN-MARZELLE, Pomerol $64.50
Rich aromas of ripe fruit and chocolate. Full-bodied, with wonderful, velvety tannins and lots of chocolate and berry character. Long and delicious. So much better than the barrel sample. Best after 2010. 900 cases made. (www.winespectator.com James Suckling, Wine Spectator, score 90)

2004 BEAUSEJOUR (DUFFAU-LAGARROSSE), St. Emilion $64.00
Wonderful blackberry and crushed raspberry aromas follow through to a full-bodied palate, with velvety tannins anda long, caressing finish. Balanced and long, with a lot in reserve. I like it as much as the 2000. Best after 2011. 2,500 cases made. (www.winespectator.com, James Suckling, Wine Spectator, score 91)

2004 BEAUSEJOUR-BECOT, St. Emilion $65.00
Faint black fruits with a slightly minty impression on the nose. The softness of St. Emilion shows clearly on the palate, with nutty overtones and some solid tannins. Drink 2014 - 2021. (Last tasted 2009) Rating: 88 (Vines.org)

2004 TROPLONG MONDOT, St. Emilion $69.00
Aromas of blackberry, with hints of tobacco. Full-bodied, with fine tannins, good length and a delicate, fruity aftertaste. Much more refined than I remember from barrel. Caressing. Best after 2007. 5,000 cases made. (www.winespectator.com, James Suckling, Wine Spectator, score 90)

2004 BEAUREGARD, Pomerol $49.00
Perfumed and complex, with floral, chocolate and fruit aromas. Full-bodied, with silky tannins, layers of subtle fruit and a long finish. A pretty wine already. Best after 2011. 5,000 cases made (www.winespectator.com, James Suckling, Wine Spectator, score 89)

2004 LE BON PASTEUR, Pomerol $67.00
Aromas of blackberry and chocolate follow through to a full-bodied palate, with soft tannins and a dark chocolate and fruit aftertaste. As outstanding as the 2003, but a more elegant style. Best after 2010. 2,000 cases made. (www.winespectator.com, James Suckling, Wine Spectator, score 90)

2004 BARDE HAUT, St. Emilion $59.00
A gorgeous nose of ripe raspberry, with hints of vanilla and blackberry. Intense yet subtle. Full-bodied, with lots of fruit, yet refined and layered with silky tannins. Long and caressing. Gets better and better. I like it more than the 2003 or the 2000. Best after 2012. 6,065 cases made. (www.winespectator.com, James Suckling, Wine Spectator, score 91)

2004 d’AIGUILHE, St. Emilion $38.70
Aromas of milk chocolate and berry. Medium-bodied, with fine tannins and a clean, fruity finish. Already delicious. Best after 2008. 9,580 cases made. (www.winespectator.com, James Suckling, Wine Spectator, score 87)

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How The Wines Scored

Please check back after the tasting for the results.

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