The Toronto Vintners Club

SOLD OUT 1997 Barolos, November 26, 2008 

Guest Speakers: Bernard Stramwasser of Le Sommelier Inc. and Jason Phin, Sommelier, Vincor Canada

Notes on the Wines

How The Wines Scored

Piedmont is a region in north-west Italy, on the border with Switzerland and is known for the Nebbiolo grape and great Barolos. Nebbiolo is considered one of the great wine varieties, bigger, darker and more tannic, even bitter, than most types, but consequently long-lived and prized by collectors. Jealously guarded in its native Italy, very few Nebbiolo cuttings and clones have been exported to other countries. The name Nebbiolo has two probable origins. Ripe grapes have a very prominent "bloom" that gives them a "foggy" or "frosted" look, so the name may originate from "nebbia", Italian for "fog". Or the name may simply derive from "nobile", Italian for "noble". This grape is one of the more problematic for vineyardists and winemakers because of its sensitivity to both soil and geography and variability in yield, body, tannin and acidity, as well as aroma and flavor complexity, when grown in only slightly different locales. Some consider it as temperamental and difficult to work with as the pinot noir grape. Despite its fame, it’s responsible for about only 3% of wine production from Piedmont. 

Wines made from Nebbiolo are typically dark, tart, tannic and alcoholic. The best smell of cherries, violets and black licorice or truffles and have rich, chewy, deep and long-lasting flavours. Barolo wine is a heavy, alcoholic red, drunk with red meats and usually too tannic to drink on its own unless aged for years to round it off. 
From the 1997 harvest, ultra-ripe grapes produced wines that, while enormously bold, are unusually welcoming in their youth. Soft tannins - relatively…remember, this is Barolo, after all - and a wealth of red berry fruit yielded wines that are more opulent and accessible to wine drinkers that are increasingly accustomed to drinking young wines. This may be a key factor in helping new Barolo consumers enjoy their first experience with wines that are typically demanding, tannic and slightly tough in their youth. If you’re a wine sophisticate, but new to Barolo, this is the place to start!

Piemonte experienced an unprecedented string of superb vintages from 1995 to 2000. Of these vintages, critics herald the 1997 as the richest, ripest, most approachable of them all (Wine Spectator rates it ‘99’ calling the wines "super-ripe, opulent, flamboyant" while Parker gave it a more ‘modest’ 93). Whether a 99 or 93 – there’s no denying that these wines should be fabulous especially after more than a decade of cellaring. This will be a popular tasting and likely to sell out! 

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The Wines

1997 Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia, Aldo Conterno $75
The dense ruby/garnet-colored, tightly-knit 1997 Barolo Bussia Soprana offers notions of earth, cherries, and balsam wood. Full-bodied, with good acidity (particularly for the vintage), moderately high tannin, and a firm finish, it possesses plenty of power. Consume this outstanding effort between 2006-2020. RP: 91. Wine Advocate # 135
June 2001

1997 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco, Renato Ratti $54
The fragrant, open-knit, sexy 1997 Barolo Marcenasco exhibits glorious sweetness, an expansive, full-bodied palate, a creamy texture, and overripe notes of black cherries, raspberries, currants, and a touch of maple syrup. Fleshy, powerful, and delineated, it can be drunk now and over the next 14-15 years. RP: 91. Wine Advocate # 135, June 2001

1997 Ca Rome Barolo Vigna Rapet, Ca Rome  $60
The opulent 1997 Barolo Rapet exhibits a deep ruby color, sweet, concentrated fruit (cherries, smoke, cedar, and licorice), layers of texture, and a spicy, intense finish. Drink it over the next 12+ years. RP: 91. Wine Advocate # 135, Jun 2001

1997 Giacomo Brezza e Figli Barolo Sarmassa, Giacomo Brezza e Figli $ 50
A big, full-bodied, thick, unctuously-textured effort with considerable amber at the edge. Notes of dried red fruits, flowers, toffee, chocolate, plums, and cherries are found in this concentrated wine. It is best consumed over the next 10-12 years. RP: 89. Wine Advocate # 135, Jun 2001.

1997 Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Monfalletto, Cordero di Montezemolo. $54
A well-respected La Morra producer, Codero's 1997 Barolo Monfalletto is a soft, structured offering with muscular, earthy, licorice, and black cherry aromas as well as flavors. With airing, notes of chocolate, truffles, meat, and pepper emerge. Muscular and rustic, but substantial and rich on the palate, it requires several years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2016. 
RP: 90. Wine Advocate # 135, Jun 2001

1997 Fontanafredda Barolo Serralunga, Fontanafredda. $40
Exhibits a saturated purple/garnet color in addition to a stunning bouquet of underbrush, kirsch liqueur, lead pencil, licorice, and toasty new oak. Full-bodied and exotic (but not over the top), this is a structured, muscular, concentrated Barolo that will benefit from 3-5 years of cellaring, and keep for 2-3 decades. It is an impressive, classic effort that threads the needle between the traditional and modern styles. RP: 92. Wine Advocate # 135, Jun 2001

1997 Marchesi di Barolo Cannubi, Marchesi di Barolo $59
The dark ruby-colored, internationally styled 1997 Barolo Vigna Cannubi shows plenty of new oak, but it does not overwhelm the wine's rich black raspberry, currant, and cherry fruit. Sweet, dense, and full-bodied, with low acidity and firm tannin, this pure, clean Barolo will drink well young, yet age for 15-20 years. RP: 90. Wine Advocate # 135, Jun 2001

1997 Giovanni Manzone Barolo le Gramolere, Giovanni Manzone. $65
The 1997 Barolo Le Gramolere possesses a medium ruby color with pink at the edge. An elegant, lighter-styled 1997 with spicy tobacco/herbaceous notes intermixed with cranberries, cherries, and red currants, this vibrant wine should be drunk over its first 10-12 years of life. Wine Advocate # 135, Jun 2001. RP: 87 -91.  

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How The Wines Scored

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