1995 Bordeaux – Bordeaux At Its Best
Guest Speaker: TBD
Notes on the Wines
How The Wines Scored
"1995 delivers more than promised, with fabulously
harmonious, rich wines at all price levels."
James Suckling, wine writer
Two years ago, Toronto Vintners featured Bordeaux from the 1996 vintage. Now
we have an opportunity to compare it to the 1995’s. The ’95 vintage was an
excellent year for both sides of the Gironde and just the vintage that Bordeaux
needed after the rain affected production in the previous four years. There was
a mild winter and early spring was followed by a dry, hot summer. Rains in early
September were less than the previous 4 years and most importantly, the weather
was perfect from late September through to October. This vintage has turned out
to be consistently uniform throughout all appellations. From cask, the wines
looked particularly strong in St.-Julien, Pauillac, and Pomerol, but since
bottling, there don’t seem have be any regional weaknesses in the reds.
Pierre Lawton of Alias, a dynamic wine merchant in Bordeaux specializing in
estate-bottled wines, declared the 1995 vintage to be the best of his life.
"Some other vintages may have been better in terms of the quality of wines
made, but no other vintage has given you such high-quality wines that
appreciated so much in value at the same time."
Suckling’s opinion is that “the consistency in quality of 1995 is next to
astounding.” Although the 1995s are packed with tannins, their concentration
of ripe fruit flavour makes them incredibly harmonious at such an early stage.
While they have potential to improve for decades, they are so impressive in
their infancy, according to Suckling, that he feels it’s hard not to drink
them in their youth. After all, how many times have you opened an aged-Bordeaux,
only to find it’s over the hill? And at the cost of these wines today, you can
pay a very high price for disappointment if you wait too long to drink them.
These wines are likely to improve for many years but they are very
extraordinary now, with their fabulously rich and classic aromas, forceful yet
round-textured tannins and intense though typical flavours.
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1. Chateau Calon Segur, 3e, St Estephe
One of the great sleepers of the vintage. The wine has closed down completely
since bottling, but it is a sensational effort that may ultimately merit an even
higher score. The wine is opaque purple-colored. With coaxing, the tight
aromatics reveal some weedy cassis intertwined with truffles, chocolate, and
beef blood-like aromas. On the palate, there is an element of sur-maturite (1995
was an extremely late harvest at Calon-Segur), fabulous density and purity, and
a boatload of tannin. This deep, broodingly backward, classic Bordeaux will
require a decade of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2035. Robert Parker -
92, Wine Advocate #115, Feb 1998.
2. Chateau Clerc Milon, 5e, Pauillac
56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc reveals more tannin
and grip than the 1996 (ironically, the 1995 has more of a 1996 vintage
character, and vice versa for the 1996). This attractive dark ruby/purple-colored
wine has impressive credentials, and may merit an outstanding score with another
year or two in the bottle. Offers a gorgeous nose of roasted herbs, meats,
cedar, cassis, spice, and vanillin. Dense, medium to full-bodied wine possesses
outstanding levels of extract, plenty of glycerin, and a plush, layered,
hedonistic finish. A luscious, complex wine. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2015. A
sleeper. Robert Parker - 89, Wine Advocate #115, Feb 1998.
3. Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste, 5e, Pauillac
Another unbelievably rich, multidimensional, broad-shouldered wine, with
slightly more elegance and less weight than the powerhouse 1996, this gorgeously
proportioned, medium to full-bodied, fabulously ripe, rich, cassis-scented and
flavored Grand-Puy-Lacoste is a beauty. It should be drinkable within 4-5 years,
and keep for 25-30. This classic Pauillac is a worthy rival to the other worldly
1996. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2025. Robert Parker - 95, Wine Advocate #115,
Feb 1998.
4. Chateau Pichon Baron, 2e, Pauillac
A stylish, elegant, more restrained style of Pichon Baron, with less obvious
new oak than usual, this deep ruby/purple-colored wine offers a pure black
currant-scented nose with subtle aromas of coffee and smoky toasty oak. In the
mouth, the wine displays less weight and muscle than the 1996, but it offers
suave, elegant, rich fruit presented in a medium to full-bodied, surprisingly
lush style. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2016. Robert Parker - 90, Wine Advocate
#115, Feb 1998.
5. Chateau Pontet Canet, 5e. Pauillac
An old style Pauillac, yet made with far more purity and richness than the
estate's ancient vintages, this broad-shouldered, muscular, classic wine
exhibits a saturated purple color, and sensationally dense, rich, concentrated,
cassis flavors that roll over the palate with impressive purity and depth. The
wine is tannic and closed, but powerful and rich. It appears to possess length
and intensity similar to the 1996. This is a great young Pauillac. Anticipated
maturity: 2005-2025. Robert Parker - 92, Wine Advocate #115, Feb 1998.
6. Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou, 2e, St Julien
This wine is of first-growth quality, not only from an intellectual
perspective, but in its hedonistic characteristics. More open-knit and
accessible than the extraordinary 1996, Ducru's 1995 exhibits a saturated
ruby/purple color, followed by a knock-out nose of blueberry and black
raspberry/cassis fruit intertwined with minerals, flowers, and subtle toasty new
oak. Like its younger sibling, the wine possesses a sweet, rich mid-palate (from
extract and ripeness, not sugar), layers of flavor, good delineation and grip,
but generally unobtrusive tannin and acidity. It is a classic, compelling
example of Ducru-Beaucaillou that should not be missed. Anticipated maturity:
2003-2025. Robert Parker - 94, Wine Advocate #115, Feb 1998.
7. Chateau Malescot St Exupery, 3e, Margaux
Offers a classic Margaux combination of elegance and richness. Medium-bodied,
with delicate, beautifully ripe, black currant and floral aromas that compete
with subtle new oak, the 1995 Malescot hits the palate with a lovely concoction
of fruit, nicely integrated tannin and acidity, and a stylish, graceful feel.
This quintessentially elegant Bordeaux should continue to improve in the bottle.
A beauty! Anticipated maturity: 2002-2018. Robert Parker - 90, Wine Advocate
#115, Feb 1998.
8. Chateau Sociando-Mallet, Haut Medoc
This accessible, yet tannic example of Sociando-Mallet possesses a deep
ruby/purple color, and excellent aromatics consisting of jammy black cherries,
blackberries, and cassis, as well as subtle notes of minerals, earth, and new
oak. This is a deep, long, muscular, tannic wine that is structurally similar to
the 1996. Patience will be required from purchasers of this high class wine.
Anticipated maturity: 2006-2025. Robert Parker - 90, Wine Advocate #115, Feb
1998.
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Please check back after the tasting for the results.
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