The Toronto Vintners Club

Red Wines of Southern France, February 6, 2007

Guest Speaker: Michael Matthews

The Wines We'll Be Tasting
How The Wines Scored

The TGV from Paris swoops out of the vineyards of the lower Rhone valley bisecting Southern France as it heads towards your choice point at Avignon. Do you stay on and head west for the hedonistic pleasures of Cannes, Monaco and St. Tropez, and with minor exceptions, settle for some mediocre drinking from the vast wine lake of Cotes de Provence? Or, do you get off and head southwest into a wine area that Jancis Robinson describes as the “best value in France”. Tonight we get off that train and explore that largely undiscovered territory representing the best value in France, which to the north almost reaches to the vineyards of Bordeaux, to the west to the foothills of the Pyrenees and to the south is bounded by the Mediterranean.

Here in SW France are probably the oldest planted vineyards in the country and place names reflect the Occitaine heritage - Languedoc, Gaillac, Bergerac and Cahors. The range of grape varieties planted is enormous. To the north, the varieties are similar to Bordeaux and wines from SW France have often been confused with wines from Bordeaux. From the north-eastern boundary and for much of the area, the predominant grapes are similar to the southern Rhone – grenache, syrah, mourvedre and cinsault. Closer to the Spanish border in Madiran and Cahors we find that tannat and malbec (cot) predominate. The history and the diversity result in red wines with a lot of personality. On the edge of Basque country, the hilly district of Madiran is one of the gems of the south-west, producing rich, aromatic, flavoursome reds from the local Tannat grape with a splash of Cabernet Sauvignon. Cahors vines are older than those in Bordeaux and the wines are reputedly the darkest in the world; they are also some of the strongest and richest and will keep for years. Today, Coteaux du Languedoc is one of the most sought-after appellations in France and this should continue for the next coming years.

The wines of SW France have an affinity with the cuisine of the area such as confit de canard, cassoulet, bourride and game – big wines for big-flavoured dishes and typically needing five to six years to reach maturity. These wines, although still young, promise a mouth filling evening in styles that are unique and qualities unsurpassed for their price. Where else could you taste a wine described as “like a Latour” (London Times) and “one of the 10 best in the world” (Michael Broadbent) for under $40.

In sum, wines from South West France have plenty to offer any wine lover and are also extremely good for your heart! Tonight we’ll taste wines from Cahors, Languedoc and Madiron and one of them is the wine considered one of the top 10 in the world. These wines promise full body, good structure, firm tannins, and intense flavours and also great value for money. In addition, we’ll be sampling some appetizers apropos to the region.

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The Wines by Region

Languedoc

1. 2001 Copa Santa, Coteaux du Languedoc ($29)
The flagship wine of this property, is mostly Syrah with a dash of Grenache. Look for a dark red-black hue, roasted berries and possibly hints of cashews and smoky oak on the nose. Lots of extract of summer berry fruit on the palate with good texture, balance and acidity.

2. 2002 Ch. Des Erles. Fitou ($49.95)  
First AOC of the Languedoc area, the 70 hectares of the Castle of Erles benefit from an exceptional terroir comprising slates, clay and limestone. This wine’s producer says “…a beautiful color, it is a powerful and generous wine which reflects the roughness of the climate. Scents of the Mediterranean forest; pines, lavenders, rosemary and thymes are translated into powerful flavours of leathers, red fruits and raisins, to which the wood of our mature French oak brings tastes of vanilla and liquorice. 3 stars with Guide Hatchet 2004

3. 2002 Mas de Daumes de Gassac, Vin de Pays de l ‘Herault. ($39.95). (Languedoc-Rousillon) 
Often described as the "grand cru" of Languedoc, this wine is made in a distinctively Bordeaux style & can be mistaken for a St. Estephe in a blind tasting. The vines are barely 30 years old & comprise mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Cabernet Franc. It is reported that this wine usually needs decades of aging. Parker proclaimed this wine to be “the most wonderful wine from the region”. Michael Broadbent was even more effusive, "One of the ten best wines of the world!!"

4. 2003 La Clape ‘Hospitalitas, Coteaux du Languedoc, Gerard Bertrand ($56)
Grown on a rocky outcrop between Narbonne & the sea- 50% Syrah- 40% Mourvedre, 10% Grenache. Miniscule yields of 15hl/ha produce a wine of great concentration, extract, structure & balance. "Massive & concentrated, with meaty decadent aromas & lots of dark plum, dark cherry & cassis flavours, medium tannins & a spicy finish." (Wine-Spectator-score 94)

5. 2002 L’Ostal Cazes, Minervois La Liviniere, J.M. Cazes ($33.95)
A relatively new label from Jean-Michel Cazes & his son, Jean-Charles, who own the respected Chateau Lynch-Bages & Chateau Les-Ormes-de-Pez in Bordeaux. The vineyard, incorporates 150 acres of vines near Livinière, the first cru-designated sub-appellation within the Minervois region of Languedoc. This is their grand vin & is 100% syrah & reviews describe it as big, powerful & soft.

Cahors

6. 1999 Clos Triguedina, Cuve Prince Probus. Cahors ($35) 
One of the leading estates of Cahors. Vineyards are limestone & clay & are planted mostly with malbec, merlot & tannat. This flagship wine is named after the Emperor Probus who re-planted the vineyard in the 3^rd century. 100% malbec & aged in new Allier oak. Look for ripe dark fruits on the nose, a lush, ripe creamy texture a solid backbone of tannin & very good structure & balance.

Madiran

7. 2001 Ch. Montus, Cuvee Prestige, Madiran. Alain Brumont. ($69.00).
This is the flagship wine of the region’s leading winemaker- Alain Brumont & comes from the best terroir where yields are kept low. 100% Tannat grape, aged in a variety of American & French oak. Look for an intense dark colour, a smoky almost charcoal nose overlaid with what some might call a meaty aroma. Firm on the palate-at this age it may be reluctant to yield its typical flavours of dark, cherry fruit. Expect a big tannic structure.

8. 2000 Ch. Boucasse, Vieille Vignes. Madiran. Alain Brumont. ($37.95)
Also owned by Alain Brumont, this wine is a blend of the conventional & innovation. Vineyards are characterized by dense planting & the vines fed a compost of manure, pomace & ground rocks. 100% Tannat grape which again should produce a deep red-black hue. Expect some ripe fruit & possibly some oak on the nose (some reports indicate bitter chocolate & black olive). The taste will yield some nuances of blackberry & licorice with a good structure, mouth feel & firm tannins^.

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How The Wines Scored

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