The Toronto Vintners Club Inc.

Australian Shiraz

Guest Speaker: Darryl Brooker, Winemaker  -   Hillebrand Estate Winery

Notes on the Wines
How The Wines Scored

Shiraz - a city in south-western Iran - is known as the city of Poetry, Wine and Roses and lends its name to the grape variety, also known as Syrah in many parts of the world. Interestingly, in Australia, Shiraz was called Hermitage up to the late 1980s. The wine’s dramatic commercial success has led many Syrah producers around the world to now label their wine "Shiraz". The success and recognition of Australian Shiraz started long ago. A Shiraz from Victora competing in the 1878 Paris Exhibition was likened to Château Margaux and "its taste completed its trinity of perfection." And the vintage of 1971 won first prize in Syrah/Shiraz at the Wine Olympics in Paris.

"Shiraz underwent a renaissance when the international world began to focus on Australia. Never before had Shiraz as opulent, as powerful and as seductive been seen. Ripe fruit, a fleshy mid palate, soft tannins and a kick of American oak became the template for Australian Shiraz. And the regions of focus were the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and the Hunter Valley. The beauty of Shiraz is that it can flourish in a range of climates and slowly cool climate Shiraz came into focus. The cooler regions of Central Victoria, Coonawarra and Padthaway became known for structured wines that had black cherry, pepper and spice characters rather than the chocolate and stewed plums found in warmer climates." Toni Paterson MW 2002

"In almost every climate, Shiraz makes quality wine. It rarely needs or receives the same volume of new oak as Cabernet, it can be delicious and fruity when young, but can mellow with up to 20 or 30 years in the cellar into magnificent wine showing earthy, velvety, almost sweet fruit characters. The aromas and flavours of Shiraz vary with wine style and region, but are usually blackberry, plums, and pepper in varying degrees dependent on growing conditions. In addition, even more regionally based, we can find liquorice [sic], tar even, and bitter chocolate and mocha. Climate affects these with the warmer climates providing the plums and chocolate (Barossa) and the cooler climates giving more of the pepper (Victoria)." A Taste of Australian Wine, 'Shiraz' , By Gavin Trott.

We feature 8 shiraz/syrah wines for our formal tasting (see over for wine notes). Seven Austrialian wines originate from 4 different warm climate valleys and represent some of the top wineries in the country: Elderton & Torbreck (Barossa Valley), D'Arenberg & Oliver’s Taranga (McLaren Vale), Leasingham & Jim Barry (Clare Valley) and Brokenwood Graveyard (Hunter Valley). The 8^th wine is Guigal’s Syrah from France for comparison. Will you be able to pinpoint it?

Our guest speaker is Darryl Brooker who originates from Canberra, Australia and started his winemaking career at Mountadam Vineyards in the Barossa Valley. He is now a winemaker at Hillebrand Estate Winery in Niagara. Join us for a superb tasting and an entertaining evening!

 Top of Page

The Wines

1. Shiraz 2002, McLaren Vale, Oliver's Taranga Vineyards, $54
The opaque ruby-colored 2002 Shiraz exhibits terrific fruit intensity, voluminous, beautifully textured, full-throttled flavors, low acidity, and tremendous purity as well as intensity with the oak component kept well in the background. It should drink well for 7-10 years. Score - 93. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, Oct., 2004)

2. Shiraz Command 1999, Barossa Valley, Elderton, $69
Winner of Silver Medal at the London International Wine Challenge. The fabulously concentrated, black/rub-coloured 1999 Command Shiraz (from a single vineyard) exhibits great intensity, massive body, and huge notes of smoke, licorice, creosote, blackberries, truffles, and vanilla. This is a dense, chewy, classic example of the full-flavored, massive style that can emerge from old vine Barossa Valley Shiraz. It will hits is prime in 4-8 years, and last for two decades. Score - 94. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, Aug., 2003)

3. Classic Clare Shiraz 1999, Clare Valley, Leasingham, $45
Shiraz for this release was sourced from the 34-year-old, dry-grown Schobers vineyard (situated at the southern end of the valley) and the 38 year old Provis vineyard (5km north east of Clare). Fruit was then fermented in small batch open fermenters for 10 days and matured for 18 months in a combination of 60% French and 40% American new oak barriques. Intense aromas of mulberry and berry fruit spice dominate the nose. The palate is concentrated with mulberry, sweet plum fruit flavours and hints of licorice and dark chocolate. A full-bodied wine with supple texture supported by fine tannin structure.
www.leasingham-wines.com.au

4. The Struie Shiraz 2002, Barossa Valley, Torbreck, $55
Ripe, round and decadent, plush in texture, oozing with tarry, chocolaty plum and black cherry flavors that linger beautifully. Picks up all kinds of spicy notes as the finish goes on and on. Should only get deeper with age. Drink now through 2020. Score - 94. (Harvey Steiman, www.winespectator.com, Sept. 15, 2004)

5. Shiraz Graveyard  2002, Hunter Valley Brokenwood Wines, $79  
Excellent Hunter Valley Sshiraz with an already complex, meaty and pungent fragrance of spicy redcurrants, plums and cherries over nuances of undergrowth and polished leather. Its smooth, elegant and savoury palate of full to medium weight is classic Hunter – earthy, leathery and spicy, with a wonderful depth of sweetly ripened fruit framed by fine-grained and silky tannins. 2010-2014+. 18.7 (out of 20): Jeremy Oliver, www.onwine.com.au, July 17, 2004. 95. Wine Enthusiast, Aug. 2005.

6. Dead Arm 2003, Mclaren Vale, D'Arenberg, $55
R. Parker: 95/100 "One of this estate's flagship wines, the 2003 The Dead Arm Shiraz appears to be better than the 2002. A deeper, richer, fuller-bodied offering that spent time in equal parts French and American oak, it possesses an opaque purple color, great intensity, and a fabulously sweet nose of blackberries, cassis, asphalt, earth, and oak. Powerful, super-concentrated, and obviously fashioned from low yields and old vines, this is a classic McLaren Vale old vine Shiraz that should age nicely for 15+ years."

7. The Mcrae Wood 2000, Clare Valley, Jim Barry, $43
Balances impressive intensity and richness with a refinement and elegance that lets the flavors play out gracefully, offering mint and tobacco grace notes to the supple blackberry and plum flavors. Drink now through 2012. Score - 92. (Harvey Steiman, www.winespectator.com. Sept 30/03)

8. Hermitage 2000, E. Guigal, $85
The 2000 Hermitage from this venerable Rhône producer is ultrarich and ultrathick. A full-bodied, stunningly sweet-tasting Northern Rhône, it delivers a ripe mouthfeel and plenty of fruit, mineral, and toasted, smoky character. Long, balanced finish. Great Hermitage red from Guigal. Drink now through 2012. 4,580 cases made. Collectible.Score - 97. (Per-Henrik Mansson, Wine Spectator, Dec. 31, 2003)

Top of Page

How The Wines Scored

Top of Page